Archive for August, 2007

Enjoying Myself Once More

Friday, August 10th, 2007

view of Halong Bay from junk room

The boat ride through Vietnam’s Halong Bay was basically gorgeous. With only about 15 people on the boat at any given time, it was pretty quiet, too. That was unless the staff decided to put on some music to cure their boredom. However listening to their choices was always entertaining. My favorite pick of theirs was The Carpenters’ “Yesterday Once More.”

Ah, boating, swimming, and kayaking around limestone karsts for nearly three days with Karen Carpenter’s voice providing part of the soundtrack…can’t get more relaxing than that.

*Above photo is the view from my open door the morning after I woke up on the boat…

Hush, Little Bebe

Thursday, August 9th, 2007

girl in Halong Bay

While in Halong Bay this week, an adorable young girl rowed up alongside our junk (boat) and began sing-songedly yelling out, “Oranges? You want to buy some oranges?” I have to admit I was a little tempted. There was little snack food on the boat and fresh fruit sounded nice; I also felt a bit bad that such a small being was moving around such a big load.

A few of the other riders went down to investigate the produce. As I watched them go down toward her rowboat, I noticed her pink tank top. Her crisp Bebe shirt and clean green plaid button-up were evidence that she probably does fairly well selling the fruit fares.

I watched as the French man on our boat bought a bunch of bananas from her. The American guy who had also went down decided not to buy any oranges. When he turned back toward the ladder, she started yelling out, “Why?” As he ascended to join the rest of us, she whined furiously: “Why? Why? Why? Why? Why? Why?” Paddling around the perimeter of the boat near the rear, she didn’t even try to convince the rest of us to buy any of the produce but just kept yelling toward the one American guy “Why?”

I began to think her and her family hadn’t afforded the Bebe shirt because of her young puppy-dog eyes but instead because possible customers just wanted to shut up her insistent whining.

Yeah, with all the whining, I’d have to say she didn’t look so adorable any more.

Who’s Your Daddy/Uncle?

Tuesday, August 7th, 2007

restaurant in Hanoi

Attempting to follow my newest travel rule, I revisited a western bar/restaurant in Hanoi last night. I’d had pizza there before and while sitting at the bar I had noticed a small portrait of the original G. Dub next to the entrance. Given the rest of the posters in the place, I thought it was just another attempt at some American kitsch.

But last night, while sitting at a table and eating a grilled cheese, I looked up and realized there was a portrait of “Uncle Ho” on the other side of the door. Given the not-so-distant history between our two countries, I have to say I was fairly surprised at the juxtaposition.

Turns out the place is owned by an American man and Vietnamese woman (who are married). I guess the portraits are a little devotional to each of their country’s “founding fathers.”

And I do say little…as you can see the tributes to Jimi Hendrix and Jerry Garcia are much bigger.

restaurant posters

posters in R&R in Hanoi

New Rule!

Tuesday, August 7th, 2007

meal in Luang Prabang

My newest travel rule:
The night before any journey, I must:
1) eat at a previously enjoyed restaurant OR
2) feel super-secure in the well-cookedness of my food (yeah, I think I just made up well-cookedness)

What brings on newest said rule? Well, the night before my flight from Luang Prabang, I was excited to find a restaurant serving Lao food. You’d think finding the local food wouldn’t be that exciting, but as every restaurant in Luang Prabang serves mainly western, Thai, or Indian food, seeing the small Lao menu was pretty exciting.

So I ordered up the one veggie dish on the menu. The green beans and rice came out at exactly the same time as a young girl approached me. She was hawking bracelets and dolls, and this was the second time during this sitting that she’d been in trying to sell her wares. Attempting as best as I could to humor her, I finally dug into the meal when she left. The beans were lukewarm and the rice room temperature. Hit by pangs of worry of eating food that hadn’t been properly cooked or that had been sitting out in the open for way too long, I dismissed my worries and convinced myself the rice wasn’t piping hot because the little pre-teen had talked for way too long.

Sadly, though, my stomach didn’t believe such convincing the next morning. Hours before my flight, I was curled up like a baby nursing a knot the size of Georgia in my stomach. Yuck. Not how you want to be feeling before hopping on a plane.

Take Me Home

Friday, August 3rd, 2007

massage place in Luang Prabang

When I was getting a massage in Luang Prabang this morning, I closed my eyes and felt pretty close to home. The in-house stereo had lots of all-too familiar music; lulling me through the massage were (decent) Thai remakes of Shania Twain, The Archies, Elton John, and John Denver. And with my eyes shut, it was easy to forget where I was. That was until I opened my eyes and went to pay. The hour-long massage was $3, half the price of those in Chiang Mai.

Dirty Little Secret

Friday, August 3rd, 2007

Mekong River Laos

As I make my way through Asia, I’m trying to remember what I was taught during my K-12 years during history classes. I am struggling to recall just what pictures and words I read back then. I know that in our world history books the Korean War probably got about a half-page in most books. The Vietnam War teachings inevitably gave loads of mention to the role of media and protestors.

But I can’t recall learning about America’s “Secret War” in Laos. I wonder if it’s simply because it never got a textbook mention back in the day…or if it’s because America did such a good job of keeping it a secret.

If you’re like me and don’t recall learning about the war in Laos either…here’s a recent BBC article about some of the heavily bombed areas in Northeastern Laos.

Smokin’

Thursday, August 2nd, 2007

cigarette boxes

Cough, cough “These taste like sh**.” That’s what one of the two Dutch boys said on our first night in Laos. He’d just taken a puff of his newly purchased local cigarettes and clearly didn’t approve. He ended up snuffing it out and bumming a Camel off the French guy in the group.

As a non-smoker, I can’t attest to the quality of the local cigarettes, but if the number of Marlboro and Camel boxes at the local stores are any indicator, I’d say the foreigners (and maybe even some of the locals) here definitely dig one of the South’s popular exports.

But, the most entertaining part of seeing the cigarette boxes in nearly every convenience store is the fact that the whole city/town of Luang Prabang is an UNESCO World Heritage site, which means smoking isn’t supposed to happen anywhere here, as signs on nearly every building remind people. But, as long as people here can get non-poop-flavored smokes, I’m pretty sure they’ll be able to smoke on the streets or in the outdoor restaurants.

cigarettes

Heads Up

Wednesday, August 1st, 2007

7 Up can in Luang Prabang, Laos

After having no choice on clear sodas for the last few months and being constantly relegated to drinking Sprite, I was so happy to get to Luang Prabang. Not only do cafes and stands/stalls have Sprite, but they’ve also got 7 Up. It’s everywhere. And it’s amazing.