
Annoyed at my lack of guts (and body warmth), I’d convinced myself, no matter the weather, I’d rent a board around Torquay, Australia’s surf capital, and get out there.
Arriving at the start of Oz’s Great Ocean Road and already wearing my swimsuit, I found Torquay just like everyone described…the place for surfers. The city’s shopping center is called Surf City and for good reason…all the shops sell surf wear/gear and many are outlets as the manufacturers are in the area. There’s even a museum dedicated to our Aussie-adopted sport.
But, back to me and surfing…the surf report said the swell was at 6…so I headed down to the water to check out the waves and find a rental shop. Looking down into the ocean, I realized how much of an idiot I am. I am in Australia; the swell report said 6 meters, not feet. Doh! So, basically I’m saying, there’s a good chance I won’t see myself facedown on a surfboard until I hit Western Australia.
Being the surf capital of Australia, though, there were obviously people undeterred by the 18-foot waves, especially at the beautiful nearby Bells Beach:
_02.jpg)
_02.jpg)

